3rd of September, 2019 – Yesterday night I arranged my sleeping quarters for the day after tomorrow before I went to bed. By now I dared to do this, the trek is going well. Thanks to the blog of an Australian pilgrim that I had read at home, I positively had to spend the night at Pavilion Surf. And I managed to. Unfortunately, I can’t reserve two nights, but thankfully it is the night of the 4th of September.
Packing routine
After a lovely night, I wake up early. I take my socks from the drying rack outside and make sure that all my things are in my backpack. That has become routine by now, and I can do it faster every day. One last check to see if I have not forgotten anything, and then I leave my room to put my backpack in the hall.
A late breakfast
This morning, breakfast is not as early as usual, around seven I can join the table with a tray of food. The Japanese henro of yesterday shows me how I should break my raw egg onto my rice. When I follow his example, it is the cause of great hilarity. Foreigners should not enjoy raw eggs. I don’t actually mind it.
On my way on a new hiking day
I had already paid ahead of time and that means I can leave immediately after breakfast. Because I took the ropeway down, and won’t go up again with is, I have to walk a detour. That means walking along road <195>. Luckily this road is quiet, as is sways along the valley. I have to ascend and descent a bit, but it’s never steap. Soon I arrive at the point where one of the trails leading down the mountain from tempel 21 intersects with the road.
At some point I see the waypoint that sends me off the road. I have to go cross country across a small mountain over a staircase of small tree trunks. Then, I arrive at temple 22, Byoodoo-ji.
Temple 22 – Byoodoo-ji
This is a cute temple. The water that rises up here, should have healing properties. My feet could do with some healing. Despite the tape, I am still afflicted with blisters. So, it is time to take off my shoes, rest at a bench and enjoy the temple life.
A lively temple
It is quite lively in the temple, without it being busy. People arrive, say their sutra’s, and leave again. Everything is harmonious here. And this is also how it went for me. The little process of the ritual gives me some reprieve.
Live broadcasts of the ceremonies
For the connoiseurs and fans, there is the opportunity to watch the service live stream. Klik hier, to follow their ritual, daily at 9.00 in the morning, and 23.00 in the evening CET.
Moving on to temple 23
The sun is radiating an immense amount of heat. With my hat on and a buff around my neck to protect it, it is just about survivable. I am sweating like an otter when I am walking down the road. After a short walk across the hill, I get to route <55>. Because I have to walk more than 30 kilometres today, I stick to the shortest route… and that is this one. And I will be cursing this road for the coming few days!
Few resting spots
The twenty kilometres to temple 23 go by relatively quickly. I have to keep walking at quite a high pace, because there are few resting spots, except for a single hut. Otherwise, it is asphalt, sun, and more asphalt. Around three o’clock I flee into a Lawson’s Konbini to cool down. I drink my cold chocolate milk while standing inside the shop, because there are no seats. I would love to stay longer inside, but unfortunately, I can’t. Thankfully, I arrive at temple 23 quickly.
Temple 23 – Yakuoo-ji
This is a stately temple with several terraces. There are a lot of lanterns with the purpose of being ‘bird houses’ alongside the entry. Beautiful to see the rythm. The temple has a lot of green and stairways. I have to search for the nokyocho-office to collect my stamps.
To the coast and hotel Shiroi Toodai
A tsunami tower
From the temple, I walk into Hiwasa. There, I encounter my first tsunami-tower. A large concrete building, that serves as a refuge. I hope that I won’t have to make use of it! The coast is beautiful here. And my hotel is stuck right on the side of this coast. Gorgeous on the corner of the bay.
A biking henro in the lobby
I enter the stately lobby, and I see a pilgrim who goes by bike, who is taking the bags off his bike. That’s another way to do it, I suppose. In the tidy lobby I let them make a copy of my pass and immediately pay. Tonight, I will be eating in the restaurant, and I may make use of the o-furo/ onsen of the hotel.
Taking a bath to cool down
After putting my things inside my room, I get dressed in the yukata that lies there waiting for me, and I go to the bathroom. On the way, I throw my dirty clothes in the laundry. The machine can run its cycle while I shower. And again, the cold shower takes a long time to take the heat out of my legs. Today was hot, blisteringly so. I am curious to see if it stays that way.
Delicious food!
Around six, I appear in the restaurant, dressed in yukata. I wonder if that is normal, at least it seemed to be yesterday evening. Still, I start to doubt myself. I am glad to find out that that is for no reason, because just after me, two Japanese guests enter that are also clad in yukata. The dinner is amazing and plentiful. I fully enjoy the masterfully plated bowls of food, and pile on some extra rice. I can use some energy. After the meal, I take some iced tea and depart to my room. When I look outside, I feel compelled to take some pictures of the sea and the setting sun. I picked quite a gorgeous place to sleep!
