7th of September 2019 – When I wake up, I first take care of my blisters. I have blisters on my big toe, between my big- and index toe, and on my heel. They all make a beautiful set. I’m glad that I can tape them off well with leucoplast and I still have enough talcum powder to fill in the edges. I hope that today my socks won’t stick to the plasters.
The breakfast is once more nutritious and more than sufficient. Again, not very refined, but I don’t mind. I need a strong base to walk on. I pay for my stay, and the hostess wishes me a safe hike today. She is a lovely lady, hospitable and friendly. I depart from Minshuku Urashima at 6:45.
As I walk away I take a picture and wave for a while. I head towards the road. This morning, I will be walking a small distance along a coastal road, where the route passes temple 26. The road here is a long straight strip that passes between the coast and mountains.
Streaks of clouds interspersed with sunshine
Clouds streak across the sky continuously. The ais is intermittently stark blue or grey and dull. Nevertheless, there is no rain today. The changing weather makes the start of the day tolerable. Later, the blue sky dominates, and the sun goes back to its scalding ways.
Road work ahead, which means traffic controllers
A little bit further up the road, there is a construction project. And where you find road workers, you find traffic controllers. It does not matter how busy it is or isn’t, they are there, and they will help you pass the road work safely. This time, it’s quiet. I can take some pictures with one of the gents. He offers me something from the vending machine. I choose a can of cold coffee. He receives an osamefuda from me. It pleases him greatly!
Route national
The road reminds me of the Route National in France. Along that road you see many villages that were once lively, had a flourishing economy, all because traffic flowed through them. When the autoroute was made, the life there slowly dwindled. Here, you witness the same along route <55>. This large highway evades many of the villages and the pilgrimage route follows one of the old roads.
History and decay
I see many traditional, wooden houses on my way. Some are beautifully restored or carefully maintained. Many are in disrepair or have even collapsed. It hurts me a little to see that. Apparently, many people that used to live here moved away from the area or there is not enough money to keep the houses well-maintained. Disappointing, because I find those old houses very charming.
Tsunami-alerts
Everywhere along this coastline, I see markings with warnings for tsunamis. When I see them, I can barely believe that there are still people that live on this coastline, but then again, the mountainsides are so steep in many places that you couldn’t really live there if you tried. You would need to choose between two evils. And the Japanese will ensure safety. I pass many tsunami-towers, where you can seek refuge from the high tide. I would rather not have to, and I pray for good weather.
A little further down the road, I see a massive workshop, where they’re pouring large concrete tripods. They drop those into the sea to break the waves. In a report on television, I heard a surfer say that those things don’t work at all, but that the concrete industry is powerful enough to strongarm the government into making them anyway. No one dares to oppose them.
Finally, a Lawson’s
Around half past eleven, I happen upon the first konbini on this route. This Lawson’s unfortunately doesn’t have a seat inside. I buy some Nivea-cream to salve my chafe marks, my lunch, and an iced coffee to cool down. Outside, I go sit on a bench to catch my breath for a bit; the temperature has risen rapidly. It is again above 30 degrees and still humid.
Early at Minshuku Tonohama
I was able to keep up a decent pace, because I arrive at the hotel around half past one. As I arrive I can already go inside, and to my joy I see Geertje there too. I had met her before at temple 10 and after that at Shosan-ji (temple 10 and again after Shosan-ji). She is also staying here. I drink some cold water, put my things in my room, and leave the hotel again without my backpack. With only my temple bag I head to temple 27 at ten minutes to two.
In July 2025 the Minshuku was ‘bought’ via crowd funding by Junpei Tsubouchi who has a warm heart for henro. After renovations new rooms will come available. This place is highly recommended by me.
Up the mountain
It is 3.2km to Konomine-ji. During that part of the trek, I ascend a massive 440 metres. That is a significant climb. The trek starts at the first Tori: the gate of a Shinto temple. The curved shape of the top is fashioned for a phoenix to be able to land on it. Very good to know!
The climb is once again known as henro korogashi, the place where pilgrims fall over backwards. Then it’s nice to be able to climb without having a backpack on my back. Because of that, it goes relatively easily. I think it’s a nice route. Around quarter to three, I reach the top.
Temple 27 – Konomine-ji
The temple’s location is perfectly chosen on the mountain. There are several terraced levels, and the garden is magnificently maintained. I take my time with the ritual. In this temple I put my daughter Jip and her friend Wieske in focus. For them, I take pictures of every step of the ritual. That is a fun thing to do. Soon, in the hotel, I’ll share them with them. Just the anticipation of sharing makes it fun to be here. In closing, I have a look at Konomine Jinja, the Shinto Shrine with the second Tori.
And I head back to the hotel
I follow the official route downwards. This is the same path that I took upwards. When I pass the parking lot, I see two of those characteristic buses which carry many henro to the temples. The chauffeurs remain inside the busses, while the pilgrims do their rounds of the temple. Some of them are done within ten minutes!
Dinner with Geertje
Upon my return to the hotel, I wash my clothes, take a shower, and drink an iced coffee. Then, I share the pictures with Jip. I am curious of her reaction! Around half past six, I go to have dinner. It is next to a massive room. From that room, you can see the road. Together with Geertje, I enjoy dinner.
Preparation for tomorrow
I quickly take some pictures of Geertje’s route guide with the maps of the coming route. It’s nice to have some English text again. I talk to the owner about tomorrow night’s stay. It unfortunately must be the Guest House at temple 28. That’s going to be a long day with roughly 34 kilometres ahead. Now I better sleep. I can’t manage to. After a little while, I find out that I have my futon the wrong way around. When I turn it over, I am much more comfortable and fall asleep in moments!
