Getting up in Lodge Ozaki
6th of September 2019 – I wake up at around fifteen minutes past five. That leaves me plenty of time to grab my things, so I can sit down in the breakfast lounge around six. When I arrive, I spot a Japanese henro my age who arrived before me. The hostess seats me opposite him at a table, and that provides me the chance to make conversation with him.
He tells me that he has already completed the pilgrimage twice on foot and twice by bus. He turns out to be a regular. This time, his reason for taking the trip is an unfortunate one. His wife recently passed away from cancer, and so he visits the 88 temples along the route to honour her memory.
He shows me a picture of them both. He puts it in front of him, that way his wife can take part in the pilgrimage in some small way. We exchange experiences in that interesting blend of Japanese and English that comes into existence when both participants know too few words for a whole story. We understand each other, nonetheless.
Dessert after breakfast
The hostess treats us to a dessert to go with breakfast. We get sweet yoghurt, iced coffee, and fruits. A wonderful treat, which tastes much better than you would initially think. After the meal, I pay for my stay, take the newspapers out of my shoes, and put them on. Then, I notice that they are still damp. I will need to rest and air them out today, because if I don’t, I will get blisters.
On my way to temple 24
The moment I get outside, I break out in sweat. After yesterday’s thunderstorms, the air has cleared up a lot, but it is already hot now, at half past six in the morning. This day already seems promising. I pick up where I left off on route <55> and walk in the direction of the cape. The motorcycle henro overtakes me, honks at me, and zooms off into the distance. He is driving what seems to be something that can just about get away with calling itself a scooter; his travels look like they’re going to be quite challenging!
Past the geo-park
On the way, I pass a few tourist attractions. There is a geo-park along the road, and a little bit further down the road I see the deep sea world; a museum. I take a small break at the geo-park. Some small clouds drift past, but thankfully, they don’t carry precipitation. In the henro-hut I take a lengthier break. I take off my shoes, put them in the sun, and let them dry. The hut has two storeys and upstairs I am greeted by a lovely seaside view.
Refreshments and back on track!
I gather my things, put on my dry shoes, and walk to the vending machines. Time for a cold bottle of Pocari Sweat, the Japanese version of Aquarius. Next to the vending machines there’s a toilet building. I make grateful use of that fact. I walk back to the hut, put the bottle in the side pocket of my backpack, and put it on. Henro-bag strapped to my stomach, I am ready to get going again.
Lost my Route Guide
When I get in the vicinity of Deep-Sea World, I want to have a look at how far I still have to go before I need to leave this road. And then I notice that I have misplaced my Route Guide. I thoroughly search all the possible places where I might have put it… but I can’t find it. I am struck with panic for a moment. This guide means everything; places to spend the night, distances, useful Japanese words, where I can find konbini’s, and of course the information on the temples.
I debate walking back, but I don’t know exactly where I lost my guide. The last time I looked in it was at the Geo Park. That is around five kilometres behind me. And I am not looking forward to walking an additional 10km today. I carry on, hoping for the best. Shouldn’t I be able to buy a guide somewhere in a temple?
Ahead without Route Guide: The search for a new route booklet
My first attempt is at Mikurado. This temple is located next to a cave where Kukai has meditated. There is also a shop in the place where you can collect your stamp. In my best Japanese, I ask the lady inside the shop if she has a guide. Alas, here they can only provide me with information on the temple itself. She suggests I try again at temple 24.
I keep walking along the road, and thankfully, the exit to temple 24 has been marked clearly. I was afraid that I would miss it. The path leads me upwards toward the temple, with lies 167 metres above sea level. Oddly enough, you can’t see any sea at all from here, despite Cape Muroto surrounding you.
Temple 24 – Hotsumisaki-ji
Hotsumisaki-ji is a nice temple to visit. There is a connection between this temple and number 26. The story goes that Kobo Daishi took on the name Kukai here. He meditated in the grotto which I just passed. From the mouth of the cave, you can view both the air (Ku) and the sea (Kai).
I put down my backpack on a small bench, and I initiate my temple procedure. Despite my earlier panic, I manage to find some rest. The temple ritual has become a routine by now. Even two days where I did not visit any temples did not affect this routine.
A new guide: Japanese version
I walk around a little before I go to collect my stamps. When arrive at the monk in active service, I ask him if he has a Route Guide for me. To my great fortune, he says yes, gets up and walks over to a table with books on it. He returns with a yellow guide. That’s the Japanese version! A little bigger and completely written in Japanese. I’m happy to be able to continue, although I do miss my English guide…
Around ten past eleven, I exit the temple gate, newly equipped with a book with maps. I can get back to my journey! A little further up the road, I get a panorama view of the bay. Somewhere in the distance there lie temples 25 and 26. I will still be visiting those today.
On the way to temple 25, I walk through a fishing village. There is a Yamazaki konbini there. I have not found one of those before. It is somewhat more traditional and certainly Japanese. I buy my lunch here and replenish my supplies.
Temple 25 – Shinshoo-ji
This temple lies in the middle of a small city. I walk around the harbour, look to the right, and see the red gate building. This is a real fisher’s temple. You can see that from the images inside. The visitors believe that seamen will return safely if you do your rituals here.
It is a compact temple with an immense set of stairs to the place with the altars. I would not be surprised if this temple was built to be tsunami-proof. I complete my rituals and collect my stamp. On to the next!
Minshuku Urashima
Around half past two, I reach the Minshuku. I find it on a useful spot along the route. Here, I depart the coast and head into the mountains towards temple 26. Because of this, I decide to leave my backpack in the Minshuku, and ascend with only my temple bag. It is only 140 metres high, but at the end of the day it is nice to walk without heavy packs. I encounter some rocky parts on the route, but without backpack, it goes smoothly.
Temple 26 – Kongoochoo-ji
This is another nice temple. At my arrival, I notice the temple sentinels. They are lovely wooden statues. As always, I greet them, thank them for a safe passage, and enter the temple on the left side. I do walk back to take a picture of them, though.
After the gate, a small flight of stairs follows, and then the temple itself. I stay here for a little bit, take a selfie of myself as pilgrim, and perform my rituals. It feels great to be able to take it easy. I have all the time in the world to make it back to the minshuku. No rush this afternoon.
Night’s stay at Minshuku Urashima
When I return to the Minshuku, the hostess checks me in. The food will be served at half past six in the same dining hall where I am now. Tomorrow morning, the breakfast will also be available at half past six. Now, I’ll take a shower and wash my things.
During my shower, I discover chafe marks on my inner thighs. The sweat is tearing at my skin. I’ll need to look for some cream or grease tomorrow, to see if I can help it any. I hope it won’t get much worse than it is.
The food is fine. A little simpler than I saw in other places but prepared nicely. In the dining hall I also see some labourers, who parked their vans in front of the Minshuku. Because I sit alone, I do not come into contact with them.
Arranging the next night’s rest
After dinner, I ask the hostess where she would suggest I stay tomorrow night. I looked at the Japanese guide with Google translate, and I was thinking about Tonohama. That turns out to be owned by an acquaintance of hers, she even arranges a discount for me!
She is a woman of action, and she also wants to reserve for the day after. But if I follow her directions, I need to walk more than 30 kilometres. That seems like a bit much, I actually would like some rest. A place where I can stay two nights in a row for a rest day sounds nice to me. In my room, I sent my parents some pictures, and chat with Katja. Glad to have some interaction with home!
